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icepaws

With the crank out I would have flushed the oil ports several times, not to say they didn't, but it's a weird failure either way. Automatic or manual?


SlabGizor120

Manual. As far as I’m aware all the cleaning that needed to be done was done


icepaws

Careful inspection should reveal the cause.


SlabGizor120

Careful inspection didn’t reveal the cause the first go around except that it “somehow lost oil pressure” so I’m concerned I still won’t get any answers. Would sending an oil sample to black stone be able to tell me much about the cause?


icepaws

Not really, that test will tell you what metal failed. But so will taking apathe engine


icepaws

When the engine was done, did anyone check the oil return passages to make sure oil could flow down from the head?


SlabGizor120

I don’t know but if the oil return passages were clogged wouldn’t it spin a bearing immediately instead of 100 miles in?


icepaws

No, because if the return passages are clogged it will hold oil in the heads but not cause an immediate drop in pressure.


SlabGizor120

Right. It would only drop in pressure once the pickup empties the pan and all the oil is up in the head and not flowing back down to the pan quickly enough to replenish the pan. However it seems to me that it would take minutes to empty the pan, not 100 miles.


icepaws

No. You are thinking as though it's completely plugged, not just restricted. Think like it needs a return hole that is a half inch, but it's restricted down to 1/4 inch. It would be enough for idle and part throttle, and even work when it's hot. But during extended highway driving it would keep too much oil not in the pan, even if it only happened for a few moments, that's all it would take. Something as simple as the head gasket on the wrong side. Or like on Honda the oil restriction is missing for the supply going to the head, so everything would look good, but too much oil would be pumped to the head.


SlabGizor120

Gotcha. Thanks


icepaws

Think of it as oil going into other parts of the engine besides the oil pan.


Driving2Fast

I’d also avoid driving it hard for the break in period. Heck look at donut medias recent video on their WRX. They had a fresh engine in it and blew it up with less than 100miles because they ripped it too soon too. You have to allow your engine parts to set properly and mate to eachother. It’s like going into sex dry, not a good experience. And follow your oil change interval after break in closely because microscopic metal bits come off when wearing into the engine.


isit1620yet

Completely false. Any high performance shop I’ve dealt with breaks it in on the dyno and sends it shortly after full boost


RickMN

Ah, I'd be looking at the oil pump


SlabGizor120

Oil pump was replaced with a brand new OEM one each time


RickMN

I would double check bearing clearances, perform a pressurized oil drop test and monitor oil pressure during the break in period. At some point you're losing oil pressure to cause metal to metal contact between crank and bearing.


SlabGizor120

Unfortunately the genesis coupe only has an oil pressure switch that kicks the oil light on at 6 psi, where your engine is already gone at that pressure. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to buy one in order to monitor it for the next rebuild, if they still warranty it again


zerglet13

Could the pressure switch be changed to a lower pressure?


SlabGizor120

The switch throws an oil light at 6 psi which is less of a low oil light and more of a “you’re fucked” light. However it never came on except a bit of a flicker at 500 rpm when the clutch brought the rpm down coming off of a stop light, I’m told that’s normal though